Friday, 23 April 2010

Steak with Red Wine Gravy

Here's a meat-feast as promised. I think a good steak meal, no matter how cultured or refined you may think you are, is still one of the most complete and balanced dishes possible. The accompaniment can be almost anything you like, though I find that good old-fashioned potato wedges work very nicely, especially with a big dollop of ketchup on the plate. After years of trying and failing to grill the perfect steak, I used a cast-iron grill pan, the type with lines on it, and was amazed at the results. If you are looking for a reliable way to cook steak and other meats, I highly recommend one of these babies!

PREPARE THE STEAK AND WEDGES

Steak cuts are very much a personal thing, though my favourite for cooking in this way for both flavour and price is sirloin. Avoid fillet steak, it's too lean and won't give you nearly as much of a charred, BBQ taste on the griddle. To prepare the meat, I generally keep it simple. Follow the steps below for a nice, tender steak which is not masked by additional flavours.
  1. Use a meat tenderizer to give the steaks a good bashing, but try not to flatten them too much or they will cook too quickly and be dry and tough, rather than soft and juicy.
  2. Rub the steak with some olive oil, salt, pepper and a little Tabasco if you want them to have an interesting zing to them.
  3. Leave the skins on the potatoes and cut them in half. Slice each of these halves into thick wedges and place on an oven tray. 
COOK THE STEAK
  1. Allow you pan to become searingly hot, then add your oiled and salted steak and cook the first side quickly, for about 3 minutes.
  2. Turn the heat down a touch and flip the steak, cook it on this side for the remainder of the time. Keep checking the texture of the steak. The harder it is, the better it is cooked.
COOK THE WEDGES
  1. Take your boiled potato wedges and pop them into a roasting tin. Pour oil all over them and toss them with salt and pepper. Bake for approximately 45 minutes at 200 Celsius until golden brown and crunchy. 
  2. Remove from the tin and drop into a large bowl lined with kitchen towel to soak up any excess oil.
PREPARE THE GRAVY & SERVE
  1. Remove the steak and the pan and leave it somewhere to rest. Pour a few glasses of red wine into the pan and scrape the bottom with a wooden spoon to remove all the beefy bits from the metal. Reduce the wine and season with salt, pepper and add a touch of water and some gravy granules (a cheat, I know, but when combined with the wine they make a splendidly rich sauce). Stir until fully incorporated.
  2. Serve the steak on a large plate with a generous pile of wedges, ketchup and a few lettuce leaves and tomato segments. Pour the gravy over the steak and enjoy.

Monday, 5 April 2010

(Foreign) Food Experiences

One of things I most enjoy about visiting my brothers and sister on the continent is the inescapable possibility of an unforgettable food experience. It hardly matters where I visit, such is the diversity of cuisine across Europe. I think I will take the opportunity, once in a while, to share a food experience, one of those delightful meals one comes across in an unexpected setting, or in an utterly predictable one such as next to the Trevi Fountain in Rome, or on the banks of the Danube in Vienna. Perhaps you will indulge me and send me an email. Tell me about one of your favourite foreign food experiences and I'll try my best to include it in a subsequent post.

SHRIMP RISOTTO IN VENICE

For those who haven't yet had the pleasure of visiting Venice or the Veneto, here's some prerequisite information. First of all, and most importantly, Venice lives up to ALL expectations. Believe me. If you have seen From Russia With Love, you will already, as many of us have, had expectations including Gondola rides with Flaxen-haired, Russian beauties and O Solo Mio sung by a delightfully chubby gentleman in a stripy shirt. Though not completely realistic, the depictions in such examples of popular culture are close enough to accurate as to be informative.

There is, however, a problem with Venice. This problem, ironically, is caused by the very features we have all all grown to love. Venice is SO popular as a tourist destination that it is almost impossible to walk two metres without bumping into a Brit, or an American, or heaven forbid a German! You get the impression that Venice is a museum, housing it's own buildings as exhibits and not really functioning as a city any more. The district of Castello is largely devoted to old naval buildings and tourist attractions. The districts near the Rialto are full of cheesy tourist boutiques selling aprons with pictures of Michelangelo's David on the front (presumably the owners consider it an unlikely possibility that any of the philistines visiting the city will know that they are NOT in Florence, where David is housed).

If you travel to the North of the city, however, walking along the northern shore, you will come to an old, still-residential district known as Cannaregio. Though the stretch of Cannaregio on the Grand Canal is packed with tourists and the usual street artists and performers, if you venture down a few of the miniature side canals and walkways, you'll soon find a peacefully oasis of authentic Venetian living to enjoy (such as the splendid examples above and below).

One day, stumbling through the broken, cobbled streets of Cannaregio, my family and I found an unassuming shop front with rather unattractive frosted glass obscuring the view to the inside. I must stress this point, there was NO sign outside, no possible indication as to the contents of the building. Being British, and thus naturally nosey, we ventured inside. You guessed it, it was a restaurant! And not just any restaurant. It seemed to be the secret headquarters of all the Venetians who needed a place where everyone knew their name, and was able to pronounce it correctly. There were no menus, no cloths on the tables and apparently no staff. I asked someone sat next to me how to order food and was greeted with a cheery yet regrettably unintelligible rant in Italian. Eventually, somebody did come to our table and I was able to hear the word Risotto in her spiel about the day's specials, so quickly interjected "che!" About 5 hours later, as is tradition in Italian restaurants, she returned with a small plate with a rather pathetic-looking dollop of risotto on it. After being starved for 5 hours and eating the entire place out of bread sticks, I was in no position to question the quality of the portion and hastily tucked in. To my astonishment, it was without a shadow of doubt or exaggeration, the most exquisite risotto I have ever tasted. I melted in the mouth, it was shrimpy but not fishy, it was creamy but not too heavy, it was sumptuous and cloud-like. I can still taste it, down the the last detail. What a surprise, and what a food experience. We returned every night for the next week. As far as I know from my explorations in Venice it is the only authentic restaurant, and since I don't know the name, you'll probably never find it. Sucks to be you. 

The moral of the story is to explore, to get lost, to wander aimlessly through whatever city in which you happen to find yourself. Don't do what the guidebook tells you to, do the opposite. As a general thought for the future, remember this rule: whatever a tourist is doing, avoid replicating at all costs, it is far from likely to lead to a surprising conclusion.

If anyone is abducted due to straying from the well-trodden tourist routes of Europe's major cities, I am in no way responsible. =)

The River Cottage Cookbook Review

This book is, for me, unambiguously brilliant. I honestly fail to see how anyone in their right mind could fail to enjoy it. For those unfamiliar with the River Cottage concept, here's some background.

Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall was the subject of a show based in Dorset, England, in the late 90s. Hugh moved into an old cottage with the aim of turning it into a self-sufficient smallholding. If you're lucky enough to find the show somewhere in the cavernous depths of the internet, it's definitely worth a watch. You can learn an awful lot about growing your own vegetables, rearing animals for meat and, of course, cooking! Hugh's approach is to buy seasonally - to buy produce from local sources as and when they are available. The obvious positive consequence of this is that you are supporting local farms and producers - one of the concepts upon which River Cottage is based.

The book contains information on almost any vegetable, meat, fish or spice you could ever wish to cook with, from buying, preparing and cooking. As a resource for those new to cookery, it is an invaluable tool, and is even useful for those who might consider themselves experts.

Also check out the website of River Cottage. After over 10 years the old place is still going strong, and Hugh hosts regular cooking tutorials and seminars at the property.

Check out Hugh's other titles too, and keep a lookout for his TV shows!

Tuesday, 30 March 2010

How to Buy, Prepare and Cook Mussels!

Mussels are one of my absolute favourites when it comes to seafood. There are, however, a few key points to consider when it comes to buying, cooking, and eating these peculiar little bivalves. Here are my top tips to avoid ending up with a bad tummy. All mussel experiences should be as happy as this one (see picture!)

BUYING

  1. Make sure you buy from a reputable fish-monger. Choosing a fish market is very important when buying anything from salmon to oysters. When you enter a fish market, the last thing you should smell is fish! You should notice smells like seawater, seaweed, parsley, but never the strong smell of fish.
  2. Always check to see if your mussels are alive. To do this, take a few and knock them on a hard surface, if they are alive, they should close up as a response. Only buy live mussels. Furthermore, when it comes to cooking, knock each one individually before adding to the pot. Discard any non-closers immediately, they are bad.
PREPARING

  1. Remove the “beards” from the mussels with a knife. Try trapping the green fibres between the knife blade and your thumb and pulling it out, but be careful!
  2. Scrub the shells with a wire brush to remove any dirt and grime, and pop them into some cold water to keep them fresh while you get your pan ready.
COOKING

The simplest recipe for mussels is moules mariniere. This is an old French sailor’s recipe, and simply delicious served up in a huge bowl with crusty bread on the side with which to mop up the sumptuous, creamy sauce. 
  1. Soften a few chopped shallots and crushed garlic in some butter over a low heat, being careful not to brown either.
  2. Add the mussels and a glass or two of  dry white wine. Place the lid firmly on, turn the heat up, and steam in their own juices for 3 –4 minutes. Make sure you disturb them every 30 seconds or so by shaking the pan with the lid still on.
  3. Add some double cream (as much as you fancy) and some chopped parsley. Remove from the heat.
  4. Serve in a large bowl with crusty bread on the side.
Enjoy!

Monday, 29 March 2010

The Jamie Oliver Flavor Shaker

Jamie’s product, the “Flavor Shaker”, is a weird looking thing at first, isn’t it? For while I was convinced it was either a sex toy or a musical instrument. It turns out, however, to be a remarkably ingenious little tool which can be used much like a pestle and mortar (for dummies!) Essentially, it’s as easy as popping your ingredients into the main section (these will usually be the ingredients for a vinaigrette or some kind of sauce), securing the lid and finally giving it a good old shake. The metal ball inside bashes your ingredients up, and blends them into a smooth mixture.

Apart from the choking hazard of the small metal part inside, the product is 100% safe if kept away from small children and pets. I give this product a well-deserved 8/10 and highly recommend giving it a try.

The Ultimate Fish and Pasta Dish

This is a recipe I created myself, using some basic techniques used commonly in European cookery. The sauce is a very basic, yet delicious white wine and cream creation, with garlic and mild chilli heat. I recommend using double cream to add a richness, though it's not essential. As for the wine, there is a golden rule in cookery: "never cook with wine you would not be happy to drink a whole bottle of!" With this in mind, choose your favourite white, something dry, and let's get started!

MAKE THE SAUCE

This may seem counter-intuitive, but stick with me. This sauce reheats very well, so if you prepare it now it will be perfectly edible for reheating from warm or even cold later! I wouldn't, however, store it for more than a night in the fridge due to the cream.
  1. Finely chop some garlic into tiny cubes, about 3 cloves will be sufficient. Chop an onion in two, then slice each half into thin wedges so that the segments fall apart nicely. Next quarter a few button mushrooms, or if you have them, try chestnut mushrooms for a more traditional taste.
  2. Heat a tablespoon of olive oil, not extra virgin, in a pan and add the garlic and onion. Cook down until soft but not brown. 
  3. Add the mushrooms and pour a healthy slug of wine over, about 2 glasses. Crumble a vegetable stock cube into the sauce and put the lid on. Simmer for 5 -10 minutes to evaporate the alcohol.
  4. Add about 2 wine glasses of double cream and heat through for a few minutes. Turn the heat off and season with salt and pepper, and add some chopped red chilli if you wish. Done.
COOK THE PASTA AND FISH

I suggest using something like cod or haddock, but more sustainable options such as ling or even pollock will work nicely. We are going to simply bake the fish with a splash of white wine.
  1. Rip off a large piece of tin foil and place 4 cod fillets on the sheet. Make sure you lightly oil the surface first to prevent sticking. 
  2. Pour some white wine over, and season well with salt and pepper. For extra succulence, rub some butter into the fish with your fingers. 
  3. Bake for about 20 minutes at 180 Celcius.
  4. Boil some water and add your favourite pasta. This dish works especially well with spaghetti or linguini, but you can use whatever you like.
ASSEMBLE THE DISH

This is where it all comes together. Reheat the sauce and throw the drained pasta in, toss gently to coat the pasta. Serve a nice big pile in the middle of each plate, with the lovely, perfectly-cooked fish on top, still as a fillet. Pour more sauce over the top and add some grated parmesan.

Perfect, enjoy!

Spicy-Crusted Salmon with Buttery Sweet Potato Mash

This is a rather interesting recipe. You might think that the combination would be a little too much, what with the salmon and sweet potatoes both having extremely distinct flavours. However, I think you'll find the combination rich, sweet, and full of satisfyingly spicy garlickyness (my new favourite cooking term!)

PREPARE THE FISH
  1. Lay out three plates. One should contain self-raising flour, the other beaten egg and the final a special mixture of breadcrumbs, cayenne pepper and maybe some dried chilli flakes if you're feeling particularly adventurous.
  2. Dip the salmon into the flour, egg and then crumb mixes one at a time, making sure even coverage is obtained. You should end up with a nicely crumbed piece of salmon ready for frying.
  3. When your potatoes are nearly finished (see below), fry your salmon for about 10 minutes in a shallow pan of sunflower oil. Don't use an oil with a distinctive flavour, and don't fry it too hot, or you will burn the salmon oil and make your kitchen smell like an Indonesian fish processing plant for the next few months! When finished, place on your pile of mashed potatoes and enjoy with a sprig of coriander for garnish.
MAKE THE MASH

If you are used to eating plain old mashed potatoes then this is going to be a real treat. These potatoes are sweet, yet strangely respond amazingly well to some salt and garlic running through them. What you end up with is a rich, satisfying, creamy concoction which melts on the mouth and compliments the salmon perfectly.
  1. Peel as many sweet potatoes as you like, I'd say 1.5 per person should do if they are of a reasonable size (the potatoes not the people!) Chop them into slices of about 1 cm thick to make it easier to soften them, as the last thing was want to be doing is standing around waiting for our potatoes to be ready!
  2. Boil them in salted water for about 10 minutes, or however long it takes to be able to slide a knife through with minimal effort.
  3. Drain the potatoes and return to the pan. Add a generous helping of cream and butter, plus dried or fresh garlic to taste. Add also some chilli flakes or other spices if you fancy being daring (don't come crying to me if you mess things up though!)
  4. Bash them with the bottom of a glass, or use a masher if you'd prefer, then beat them with a wooden spoon to make them creamy but not runny.
  5. Spoon your potatoes into a steaming pile in the middle of the plate and rest the salmon on top. Garnish as suggested above.
Let the salivation commence!